Some time in late November, the old squares of Central Europe change character. Wooden stalls go up in front of cathedrals and town halls, strings of lights are hung between gables, and the smell of mulled wine and toasted almonds drifts down streets that were quiet a week earlier. The Christmas market is a tradition that goes back centuries in Germany and Austria, and it has spread across the region and well beyond.
This guide covers the markets we know best, the ones where we run guided Christmas market walks, along with some practical advice for planning a festive trip.
When the markets open
Most markets open in the last week of November, often on the Friday before the first Sunday of Advent, and run until around 23 or 24 December. A number stay open into the new year, usually with a smaller selection of stalls, and a few close a little earlier. Dates vary each year and from city to city, so it is always worth checking before you book flights. If you have a choice, the first two weeks of December tend to offer the full atmosphere without the heaviest crowds of the final weekend.
The markets worth travelling for
Nuremberg, Germany
The Christkindlesmarkt on the Hauptmarkt is one of the oldest and best known in Germany. It is opened each year by the Christkind, a figure played by a young local woman, who reads a prologue from the balcony of the Frauenkirche. Look out for Nürnberger Lebkuchen, the city’s spiced gingerbread, and the small Nuremberg sausages served three to a roll.
Vienna, Austria
Vienna has several markets rather than one. The Christkindlmarkt in front of the neo-Gothic Rathaus is the largest, while the markets at Schönbrunn Palace, the Spittelberg quarter and Maria-Theresien-Platz each have a different feel. Punsch, a hot fruit punch, is as common here as Glühwein.
Salzburg, Austria
Salzburg’s market fills the squares around the cathedral, with the fortress lit up above. The city is small enough to walk everywhere, and the setting, with the baroque old town against the mountains, is hard to beat in the snow.
Prague, Czechia
The markets on Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square are the centrepieces, with a tall tree in front of the Týn Church. You will see trdelník everywhere. It is rolled dough baked on a spit and dusted with sugar, and while it is more a modern tourist favourite than an old Czech tradition, it is good on a cold evening.
Strasbourg and Colmar, France
Strasbourg calls itself the capital of Christmas, and its market around the cathedral has been held since the sixteenth century. Colmar, a short train ride south, is smaller and arguably prettier, with half-timbered houses and canals in the Little Venice quarter. Alsace mixes French and German traditions, so expect vin chaud alongside bredele biscuits.
Berlin, Germany
Berlin has dozens of markets. The one at Gendarmenmarkt sits between two domed churches and the Konzerthaus, the Alexanderplatz market is large and lively, and the market in front of Charlottenburg Palace has a grand backdrop.
Kraków and Poland
Kraków’s market on the Main Market Square is framed by the Cloth Hall and St Mary’s Basilica. Polish markets are a good choice for something a little different, and Wrocław, Gdańsk and Warsaw all hold their own.
Zurich and Geneva, Switzerland
Zurich’s Christkindlimarkt includes an indoor market inside the main railway station, under a tree decorated with crystals, which is welcome when the weather turns. Geneva’s market by the lake is smaller and calmer.
What to eat and drink
- Glühwein: hot spiced red wine, usually served in a souvenir mug. You pay a deposit on the mug and get it back when you return it, or keep it as a memento.
- Lebkuchen: soft gingerbread with honey and spices, often iced or covered in chocolate.
- Bratwurst: grilled sausage in a bread roll, the standard market lunch in Germany.
- Roasted chestnuts and sugared almonds: sold warm in paper cones.
- Kinderpunsch: an alcohol-free hot punch for children and anyone who prefers it.
Practical tips
- Go on a weekday evening. The markets look their best after dark, which in December can be from about half past four. Weekends, especially Saturdays, are much busier.
- Dress in layers. You will be standing outside for long stretches. Warm boots, gloves and a hat make a bigger difference than a heavy coat.
- Carry some cash. Card payments are more widely accepted than they used to be, but smaller stalls may still prefer cash.
- Book hotels early. Popular market cities fill up in December, and central hotels are often reserved months ahead.
- Visit in daylight too. The stalls are easier to browse when it is quiet, and you can see the old towns properly before the evening crowds arrive.
Seeing more than one market
Central Europe is well suited to a festive trip by train. Munich, Salzburg and Vienna link up easily, as do Prague and Vienna, and Strasbourg and Colmar are less than an hour apart. Three or four nights split between two cities is usually enough to see both properly without spending the whole trip in transit. A guided walk on your first evening is a good way to get your bearings, find the best stalls and hear the stories behind the traditions.
Our Christmas market tours are three-hour guided walks in many of the cities above. If you would like to build a longer winter trip around them, with hotels and rail travel between cities, tell us what you have in mind on our Plan your trip form.
